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Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB):The Highlight of my Summer

To say that the Tour Du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a life altering climb providing you with magnificent views nearly every step of the way hardly begins to depict the journey I embarked on this past July. I started my climb on July 18th, 2017 and couldn’t be happier with my decision to spend a week trekking the “best of” the TMB.  I opted for a self guided tour, but I did book through  Monkeys & Mountains where they arranged all of my lodging throughout my hike and gave me daily detailed instructions.  Essentially, through booking with them, I waived my responsibility of having to worry about nightly accommodations. Through booking with this company, I avoided additional stress of planning where to start/end my hike…and breakfast and dinner were covered each day! Additionally, I had the freedom of hiking by myself, or rather with my hiking partner.

Map of the TMB

Day 1

Bellevue – Les Contamines

1,968.5 ft ascent – 3444.8 ft descent

I began my journey from St. Gervais (where my luggage transfer picked up my bag). I then took the tram from here to Bellevue where I began the actual trek. The tram ride was rustic, slow and absolutely stunning. The TMB hike from here starts to descend across from where the tram dropped me off, which was a misleading way to start the hike. I thought, this seems way too easy….boy was I wrong. The hike started off fairly calm and already with amazing views, and quickly became challenging. I passed Bionassay Glacier, the view from the suspension bridge is incredible At the mountain pass, Col de Tricot, a herd of sheep who are way too acclimated to humans,. They will come up to you and “baaaaaaaa” in your face. I even got so lucky to have one lick my elbow, what a scratchy tongue surprise!

After the pass, there was still much work ahead…day 1 kicked my ass. I was exhausted and ready to be at the hut, but there was still much ascending and descending to do, with views that helped push me along. After passing a chalet and descending through a cute town, I stopped for trekking poles! I recommend them HIGHLY. My joints and muscles and basically every part of me was sore….and I still had another 1.2 miles to get to my hotel!

Upon arriving at Hotel La Gelinotte, I indulged in the best glass of wine and enjoyed one of the best nights of the hike. The owner is welcoming and serves up quite a tasty dinner. The atmosphere was cozy, comfortable and intimate…and there were plenty of seats outside, with what do you know, a spectacular view. I almost wish it wouldn’t have been as nice, because it set the bar pretty high for the rest of the journey. Stay here if you can!!

Day 2

Les Contamines – Les Chapieux

4265 ft ascent – 3116.8 ft descent

My second day started off pretty well, I bought a packed lunch from the hotel listed above and the owner even drove us to the starting point of the hike at Notre Dame de la Gorge. At this point, I am incredibly sore and the hike started off absurdly steep. Of course with all my hard work came insanely beautiful payoffs with excellent views all around.

Today’s trail follows an ancient Roman road, which seemed like an eternity to conquer….I just kept climbing and climbing and climbing! Times like this, it’s so important to keep a positive mindset…also helpful to have an encouraging hiking partner. I’m forever grateful that Joshua (my hiking partner) is constantly reminding me of how great I’m doing or saying “You got this Stella!” Extra positivity never hurts!

After reaching the summit, you’ll be greeted with 360 degree unbelievable views. I like to each my lunch at the summit, as most do. The weather was turning on this particular day, so I didn’t spend as much time as I would have liked enjoying the views. Instead, I continued on to climb some more before descending. Today of all days, I was especially glad to have purchased trekking poles.

This is by far the hardest day of all the days along the TMB. The day seemed never-ending, but also rewarding as hell. The Refuge des Mottets is the best sight after such an exhausting day. They have a great space inside that is spectacular, dim lit, cozy and warm. When I walked in my nostrils immediately filled with the spice and scent of beef stew. I’m not a huge red meat person, BUT, this stew made me so happy I could cry. For a refuge in the middle of seemingly nowhere, (and I mean nowhere, no cell service, no wi-fi, etc) this meal was seriously one of the best dishes I’ve ever had the pleasure of consuming.

Post dinner, the lights get even a little more dim and a woman rolls out a box. She then starts cranking it and it plays a Beatles song….everyone starts singing the lyrics…everyone is chipper, maybe tipsy, dancing and having a great night. Beatles song after Beatles song play out of this box, maybe 3 or 4 songs and everyone joins in again. This was an unforgettable evening. The togetherness I felt, in a room full of strangers is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. Just wow.

Day 3

Les Chapieux – Courmayeur

2460.6 ft ascent – 2952.8 ft descent

Today, I walked from France to Italy, nbd. I went from hearing “Bounjour” to “Buongiorno” along the path – fun to notice.  Unfortunately, the weather was not particularly on our side…its been raining all night and continues to do so. I try to stall at breakfast hoping the rain will slow down and it does a little! The trail started conveniently behind the refuge and so the climb began.The clouds look wild and the rain seemed to pass 5 minutes into our hike, woo!

The pass at Col de la Seigne is definitely the highlight of the day. I especially liked being able to say “I am in two countries right now!” Since the weather was being fickle and cold at that elevation, we hurried along.

The town of Courmayeur is one of the largest you walk through! So, try to enjoy it, if you’re not too exhausted! There are a ton of souvenir shops, restaurants, a pharmacy, grocery store, etc. I decided to eat since I finished the day fairly early and had several hours until dinner…and ended up spoiling my appetite. Turned out to be in my favor because it was the worst meal I had along the TMB, super disappointing compared the the prior two evenings.I saw other tables with more appetizing plates, maybe I just ordered wrong.

Accommodation: Hotel le Vieux Pommier

*Side note, if you’re looking for a good packed lunch on this day, “Take Away” shop opens fairly early and makes a mean caprese sandwich with the freshest mozzarella, mmmm!

Day 4

Courmayeur – Champex

2624ft ascent -2788 ft descent

I got up as early as possible to catch the free breakfast today…and to stay ahead of yet another possible storm. From the hotel, I caught a shuttle back to the trail – starting at the foot of Val Ferret…beginning the hike from Italy to Switzerland! Yeah, that’s right, 2 countries at once…two days in a row! And what a shock, the trail started off steep. My muscles are finally starting to not feel quite as sore…but my knees are another story.  Grand Col Ferret was quite frigid, so we enjoyed the views to each country side briefly and took our lunch break when we passed a hut along the way. Plus, we got to see a lot of the Switzerland view on the descent.

Once you arrive in Champex, if the weather permits and you’re legs will cooperate, take a stroll down the main street. There’s Lake Champex with a marvelous view of mountains, I could never get over the amount of beauty that surrounded me each day along this trip. There’s additional restaurants and shops too! I found a more unique souvenir shop than the other ones I encountered thus far and got myself a shirt!

Accommodation: Pension Plein Air – shared bathroom, even with my private accommodation, food was decent, not as cozy/welcoming as the other huts I stayed in

Every day along the TMB, I feel more and more accomplished and each day is my new favorite.

Day 5

Champex – Trient

2296.6 ft ascent – 2624.7 ft descent

Another early start to the day & early rising is becoming much easier. Heading out early to avoid some more bad weather. The beauty along this route astounds me! The Bovine Chalet is an oasis at the pass today! So many benches/tables with an outstanding view!

After resting at the chalet, I continue onward, there’s a slight ascent before the descent begins. While descending, there was an abundance of wildflowers. Perhaps, the most concentrated amount of flowers I have seen amid the TMB…gorgeous purples!

After descending, you’ll see a gift shop. The only one in the whole town as far as I know…so if you want anything, there’s your chance. I was under the impression there would be more in the actual town and was very wrong. If you’re staying in town, you’ll follow the road down until it meets back up with the TMB trail.

I stayed at Relais du Mont Blanc (aka Auberge du Mont Blanc). Another refuge that has shared showers/bathrooms even if you request a private accommodation. No big deal, but good to know! This spot let you choose from two dinner options, a veggie one or meat. I chose the fondue, which was incredible. The meat option was a pork and rice dish which had rave reviews too.

Day 6

Trient – Argentiere

2952.8 ft ascent  – 2624.7 ft descent

Switzerland – France

Today I did not get so lucky with the weather. The day started off pleasant and quickly turned to a fog riddled trail where I could hardly see Joshua who was right in front of me. I kept ascending and ascending without an end in sight. I heard there was a hut at La Balme Pass, where the staff isn’t the most friendly. I didn’t care much as I was freezing and slightly bitter…I stopped for some hot chocolate and was greeted with rude service…and a sign that said something along the lines of, this isn’t a gas station, you can’t use the restroom (unless you’re a paying customer). Kind of hilarious, mostly off-putting.

I moved along, still hungry and cold and ready to get the day over with. There were blueberries growing along the trail which increased my mood slightly, they were premature, but I ate them anyway. Thanks random trail go-er for pointing them out and handing me one! And then an even greater vision appeared before my eyes – a ski lift! Yep, I opted for the easy way down. I couldn’t see anything anyway, sooooo, yeah. There’s food/icecream/desserts near the ski lift too.

After the ski-lift I still had a little walk to the hotel, though there is also a shuttle option. You meet back up to the TMB by taking a side street to the  left. I stayed at Hotel La Couronne which was most like a regular or normal hotel out of all of the places I stayed. Had an elevator (quite a luxury), no communal dinners, spacious room and comfortable bed, ahhhh!

This town was more buzzing than almost anywhere else thus far along the way, plenty of restaurants/bars/shops! There was even a tea shop!

Although the day wasn’t as ideal as the other days, it was still an accomplishing day. Navigating through thick fog is hard and not knowing where you’re located is disconcerting.

Fog quickly blankets all…
Meeting back up with the TMB after the ski lift

Day 7

Today would have entailed hiking from Argentiere to Chamonix, however, due to rain all day, I chose to take a 15 minute train instead of wet hiking for hours…call me crazy. This allowed for quite an easy last day – exploring Chamonix in the rain instead! This is for sure the largest, busiest and most commercial town along the TMB. Shops on shops, restaurants (one I can recommend is NBC – a brewery & restaurant, what more could you want?), and even a movie theater! I got plenty of souvenirs here that I didn’t have to carry or worry about through the hike and quite enjoyed my relaxing last day….and even stayed an extra day to rest!

Additional Thoughts Related to the TMB:

  • You cannot control weather obviously, so it’s important to stay updated on the forecast and adapt
  • Good hiking shoes make all the difference – my favorite shoes that have yet to disappoint me
  • Listen to your body! Even though I love my hiking shoes, I had a broken toenail (happened 2 days before my trek) and switched my boots out one day to help relieve pressure around my toe
  • Starting your days early is beneficial/crucial to avoid afternoon thunderstorms and other unforeseen events
  • The TMB is incredibly well marked – having a map is helpful, but I didn’t need it once, even when visibility was poor
  • Take breaks, hey, it’s tiring AF, take a break and while you do so, enjoy what’s around you, you’re on the TMB!!
  • Most accommodations had dinner/breakfast served at certain times, always check and plan accordingly
  • It’s important to manage your time, but also enjoy and savor all the views for as long as you can
  • Most accommodations offer packed lunches for the day, ask upon arrival and carry cash to purchase said food – cash is also handy for gift shops and alcohol at the hugs/refuges/hotels/chalets
  • STRETCH – I cannot emphasize enough, stretch, stretch, stretch! Seems simple, but so effective
  • If you’re still sore, no shame in taking an ibuprofen, not saying to overdo it, but it helped me through the TMB especially with my broken ass toenail
  • Take plenty of layers! It gets cold and hella windy at the top of the passes and weather can change in the blink of an eye, stay prepared!
  • Drink water, duh, there are plenty of water stops along the way, there’s no real excuse to not have enough water
  • Always look on the bright side, you may in fact be miserable at certain times, in pain, struggling, tired, but keep your spirits high, you’re trekking the TMB
  • Caffeine/electrolytes are helpful, at least for me. I took electrolyte packets with me and usually had 1 or 2/day

This is unlike any hike I have ever done.  The luxury of being able to day hike everyday is beyond perfect, hiking through mountains and towns and staying in a community atmosphere is a phenomenal experience. Waking up, hiking for hours, testing my limits, being surrounded by the most scenic and breathtaking sights I’ve ever seen, then go to bed and do it all over again for days on end….I’ve never felt so accomplished and fortunate. Even when I was in pain and sore and exhausted, no part of me wanted this week to end. I cannot recommend this long distance hike enough, I know I’ll be back on the TMB one day.  If anyone has additional questions, please don’t hesitate to ask! xoxo

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Lake Como – Ultimate Relaxation

Of my recent trip to Europe, Lake Como was definitely one of the highlights and one of my favorite places to vacation. After exploring city after city and nonstop go-go-go, Lake Como was the perfect place to take a step back and relax. Lucky for me, I rented a place that had an incredible view. As a result, I didn’t even have to leave my apartment for that picture perfect spot to enjoy the lake.

View from my Airbnb

When visiting Lake Como, I stayed in Perledo, which is about a 45 minute walk from Varenna. It was quiet, quaint and residential. I quite enjoyed my time here, but there were zero restaurants/shops. There was one small grocery store however, and 2 bars that serve a limited menu (pizza and a sandwich). If you stay in Perledo, I’d recommend renting a car. Taxis are prevalent, but pricey. Hiking is another option, but damn, it’s quite a work out. the steep inclines/declines are no joke.

I did make the trek from Perledo to Castello di Vezio. For my hike there, I just followed signs for Vezio and maybe a half hour or so later (with my calves burning and sweat dripping everywhere) I made it! Worth the climb for the panoramic views of Lake Como – the castle is small, but cool (and only 4 euros!).

After Castello di Vezio, I hiked down to Varenna to check out some of the gardens right along the water – Villa Monastero (5 euro entrance fee) & Hotel Villa Cipressi (4 euros to access the gardens). These two gardens are directly next to each other, so I suggest doing them back to back. If you want a lunch break in between there are plenty of restaurants nearby. I opted for a quick lunch at the cafe located in Villa Monastero, which was a basic veggie sandwich with an optimal view and peaceful surrounding.  If you only have time for one of these gardens, the Villa Monastero is way more extensive and worthwhile….though both are beautiful and I enjoyed seeing both.

I found myself cursing under my breath on the hike back up to Perledo after walking all day. And to be noted, I love hiking. These trails/hills will keep your heart pumping hard, but entirely worth it for all the views along the way.

Additional thoughts of my Lake Como experience:

Orrido di Bellano -This is an easy to reach gorge located in Bellano with some stunningly blue water that takes you back.  I wasn’t expecting to see anything quite like this during my stay in Como. It’s minimal walking once you arrive – I took a taxi since it wasn’t that walkable from Perledo. 4 euro entrace fee (seems to be a trend for many of the attractions I visited) and I’d say, a must do! You could easily be done within a half hour to an hour, though I like to take my time, sit, enjoy, take pictures, etc, so I spent a little under 2 hours here.

Bellagio – Super touristy, which is a stark contrast from Perledo, but also adorable and welcoming. Definitely worth checking out for all the shops, cute streets and a different view of the lake.

Menaggio – Seemingly smaller than Bellagio/Varenna – maybe I just went during a slower hour, but I saw way less people and shops/stores were closed super early. I tried to go to a pharmacy around 3pm and found out it closed at noon! What? I wanted to eat at La Terrazza, but after arriving, I found out a return ferry wouldn’t have been available back to Varenna. (The latest ferry from Menaggio to Varenna is at 7:30pm…which to me seems insane.) I was disappointed by the experience, but hopefully this will help whomever in the future to plan better than I did! Though, I did get a refreshing beer at a restaurant that doubles as a hotel with another great view of Lake Como.

View from Menaggio restaurant/hotel
View from Menaggio restaurant/hotel

Varenna – This was my favorite town that I visited while on Como. Plenty of cute shops, restaurants and I stumbled upon a street market when I was exploring on a weekend. The walk of lovers is super cute – if you’re taking the ferry, it’s to the right and you can’t miss it, going this way will also take you to shops and restaurants. Osteria Quatro Pass is an excellent restaurant – beef tartare topped with aubergine and the eggplant parm are top of the line. We didn’t have a reservation and got there early enough to secure a table, thank goodness. This restaurant is nothing short of charming and quaint!

Walk of Lovers

Hanging out in a wine nook

*I ran to catch a ferry and broke my toe nail by tripping over cobblestone. So I just have to mention – be careful on the cobblestone and/or don’t wear open toe shoes! Learn from my painful mistakes!

*Ferries are super easy to navigate (click here for a schedule).  I thought it would be more daunting figuring out how they run/operate, but it’s straight forward! The lovely people selling tickets are helpful if you have any questions!

*Also, ferries are incredibly windy, so hold onto your dresses or enjoy the breeze like me! 😛

View from the ferry

*Indulge in the gelato – no shortage in the small towns and you deserve it after all the steep climbs!

Smallest gelato cone I’ve ever seen

Lake Como will forever hold a very special place in my heart. I grew to love this place, even though I only spent 5 days there! The ambiance, the stunning views, the food, and ultimately the relaxed vibes made for a vacation that I’ll never forget. It’s been on my list and it’ll remain there, as I know I want to revisit this gem one day.

Ciao for now! xoxo

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Exploring Sao Miguel (The Azores)

I mainly wanted to go to The Azores – Sao Miguel specifically for whale watching. It’s supposed to be one of the best places in the world to do so and of course for all the beautiful nature spots always up the appeal for me. Since I was already in Portugal (Lisbon), it was a quick flight over to The Azores.

On my first day, I checked out some stellar nature spots. I’ll start by saying that I’ve never been rewarded with such beauty with such little effort! There was still some hiking, but minimal. On the drive to Lagoa do Canario we hit our first cow road block.

I found driving anywhere in the Azores, well, on the way to nature spots, I encountered cows blocking the way – so be prepared for such! After arriving to Loagoa do Canario, which you should find easily on your GPS – you’ll see a hiking trail on one side and then a gravel road directly opposite. You can drive down this gravel road and park, given there are openings. You’ll follow the stairs down to the lake and encounter the following views:

It’s pretty, but honestly, after the insanely beautiful drive up here, I was a little disappointed. I was expecting more, but there was certainly more to come! Okay, so after this stop (which will literally take you a maximum of ten minutes to explore and stretch your legs), you can continue down this same dirt path to get to the highlight (in my opinion) of the day – Miradouro da Boca do Inferno. This will likely not come up on your navigating system, I actually drove to another viewpoint before going here, not realizing it was just right down the road. I’d say drive another 5 minutes down this path and you’ll likely see other cars parked there and a trail ascending!

    

Truly incredible…and the hike took maybe 5-10 minutes. I suggest after going down the main trail, to do the trail that goes off to the side for some additional impressive views, also makes for a nice sitting spot to take in all the glory that surrounds you. I never wanted to leave (besides the fact that I was hungry) . It gets windy up there, I encourage bringing a sweater or jacket. I’m not sure if you can fully tell from my photos, but from this viewpoint you can see the lakes and the ocean! Pretty amazing.

After soaking in the views, one last spot we hit was just a quick drive down the road, once you get back to the main road, take a right and drive for maybe 5-10 minutes (I guess it really depends on how fast you drive). You’ll see a bunch of people and plenty of parking spots and you have reached – Miradouro da Vista do Rei. There’s also a little stand here that serves gelato!

Upon arrival you can see the lovely view and a sign that tells you about the the scene before you. However, to get the most of the views, I suggest walking to the abandoned building two minutes walking from where you parked. There you can climb up stairs and actually get to the top of the building. You’ll get cool views along the way and if you’re into abandoned places as I am, it’s rather neat. There’s also some impressive and not so impressive graffiti.

 

The following day we got to experience what we were most excited for – whale watching! Happy to say that we saw 2 fin whales – too many dolphins to count and even a manta ray! Apparently seeing a manta ray is a rare spotting, so it was super exciting to be able to see one in the ocean. Also, our tour guide was particularly environmentally conscious which was great to see, she pulled out several pieces of trash including ropes, plastic, bags, etc. So many animals in the ocean die on such items, when she pulled out one, there was a fish stuck in the middle of the entangled garbage that she set free. By the end, my boyfriend and I were pointing out items we saw to help with the clean up. It is beyond sad that humans litter our ocean and endanger animals that way. Anyway though, here are some images from the trip.

Fin whale, in the upper left hand side of this photo – the second largest whale on Earth!
Slightly hard to see, but this is a manta ray!

Needless to say, the whale watching didn’t disappoint, though there were definitely lulls in the experience. Tours in the Azores do not lure these species for our benefit, they watch and sit and wait, so if you have little to no patience (which I generally exhibit) this may not be the tour for you. For all the waiting though, I think the rewards are worth it.

After whale watching, we headed up to Lagoa Do Fogo. We planned to go on a hike, into the crater. However, our rental car took a shit on us at one of the viewing points along the way. (Side note, I don’t reccommend EuropCar in the Azores, customer service was awful and not even apologizes were issued, let alone compensation for leaving us stranded….additional sidenote, I had a positive experience with this company in Lisbon though). Anyway, despite being stranded, we had a pretty decent view. Even though I was irritated with the situation and felt robbed of an experience I was looking forward to, I could obviously have been stranded in a far less desirable location.

Totally stunning, even without hiking to the bottom. Also worth mentioning, if it is foggy and you’re feeling sad that the day isn’t as clear as you’d like, just wait a few minutes, chances are it’ll roll over! This happened to us a few times while hiking around the island. Patience is key! And you’re on vacation after all, why rush?

One stand out restaurant of Sao Miguel –

CASA DA ROSA 

I can’t exclaim enough how much you should definitely go here! Their vegetable lasagna was unlike any I’ve ever had, not just noodles and spinach, but zucchini, squash, carrots, onions, peppers, and probably others that I don’t remember. The noodle was minimal, which was nice for a veggie dish. And the flavors, gosh, the flavors. Even my boyfriend (who is a huge meat lover) quite enjoyed this, it was so unique and delightful after a long day of adventuring, oh and filling! Also, service was excellent.

The Azores are also known for having great seafood options, not loving seafood, I can’t help out on recommendations for that. The Azores are full of great restaurants and tapas bars. I should have written down a few more names of places I went to, but I guess I got caught up in the atmosphere of the cute and inviting streets. You can hardly go wrong. I had a great time in my short stent and plan to go back with more time next visit, still so much to see and do here! <3

 

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Lisbon Highs & Lows & Recommendations

Arriving/Day 1

On Monday, June 19th I began my journey to cross the ocean to Portugal. I was departing for Lisbon at 9PM, but my first flight was to Boston with a layover in NYC. I awoke tired, yet excited in the wee hours of the morning (around 6AM) to catch my 8:55AM flight. Only to arrive in NYC, to my second leg being cancelled and not another flight until the next day.

I’m super lucky that my boyfriend acted quickly and smoothly to secure us a rental car to drive to Boston, a 4 hour drive away to catch our evening flight. Thank goodness for Hertz, otherwise I’m sure I would have had a tough time aligning my plans. Also, in case you’re wondering why I decided to fly to Boston to go to Lisbon, the flights leaving from there are super cheap! I landed my flight for around $250, one way….talk about a steal.

So after more delays, the 9PM flight didn’t leave until 10 or so, then the first stop in PLD also didn’t depart on time. Whatever, I was almost there, right? We land in Lisbon (finally!), only to have to wait in line for a little over an hour to get through customs. The day that I landed, the blue line train was down all day and the line to get a taxi was over 2 hours long. Luckily my angel of a host offered to pick me up from the airport – phew!

After getting to our place and showering, 24 hours later, we were finally able to explore the infamous Alfama!

This is my boyfriend, Josh, leading the way to our first dining experience in Lisboa. The place we went to, which isn’t really worth writing about, required cash only, so Josh went to the nearest ATM, according to the owner of the restaurant. And what do you know, the machine ate my fucking card! What a way to start, huh? Normally, I’d freak out, but I was determined to not let that ruin my mood, so instead, we ate and explored and I tried to keep this out of my mind. And I’m glad I did, because my credit card company is sending me a replacement, free of charge overseas. So note to anyone and everyone (including my future self), if something goes wrong, it’s probably not the end of the world. Manage your loss(es) with a clear head, calm demeanor and maybe some undertones of cynicism – chances are, it’ll all work out.

Day 2

I walked 3.10 miles each way from Alfama to LX Factory and back. There are plenty of public transportation options, but I like to walk and explore and stop along the way. It was incredible to see the city at that pace and essentially walk along the water for a majority of the walk. Beautiful!

We stopped at the varied Time Out Market along the way – there you will find an array of restaurant stands, communal seating, coffee shops, desserts and even a produce market. I’d say you should check it out at least once, we ate there for breakfast and stopped in for dessert later.

(Side note Manteigaria is a top notch place to order pasteis de nata – SO TASTY and a traditional must have while in Lisbon. It’s a flakey pastry with a custard filling, make sure to top with cinnamon, if you’re into that…there are a few locations)

As for LX Factory – definitely make time to check this out! It’s pretty hip, several food options, coffee, wine, shops, and street art. The highlight for me was Livraria Ler Delgar (translates to “read slowly”).  This bookstore was probably the most beautiful that I’ve ever gone to, as a book lover, I could have easily spent an entire day here alone. There was an art installation on the second to top floor, where the artist spoke about each of his works. Interesting stuff, definitely check it out. There was also a printing press on the very top floor!

      

In addition, the street art was on point. Though, I’m a sucker for art. And Lisbon in general has some phenomenal artwork sprinkled about the city.

 

Ate dinner at Canto da Vila bistro – one of the better dinners I found, but I’m also super picky when it comes to food. I ordered an eggplant pasta, with eggplant SO tender that it literally melted in my mouth…and I’m kind of an eggplant snob. My boyfriend ordered the shredded codfish with potatoes that was also to die for and for the record, I’m not into seafood (other than salmon). But, I would easily order that codfish dish. YUM.

Day 3

I had breakfast at Pois Cafe. It was most excellent! I highly recommend trying this place out. I had the Klimt, which is fantastic (a bagel sandwich with mango chutney, veggies and cheese). Just go there, seriously. It’s inviting, homey and has so many options veggie and meat-eaters alike will be impressed…also, reasonably priced!

I decided to check out Miradouro de Santa Catarina from Alfama. Not too bad of a walk, but again, I like to stop and window shop and enjoy the scenery. Lots of hills, so that’s worth mentioning.  I believe I walked through the shopping district, as there were shops on shops on shops – including local shops and otherwise. My favorite shops were the local ones, some of which were super quirky and some trendy stores also!

Once at the viewpoint, there were two snack shack type places, with covered seating and tables – also serving beer. Well deserved, after the climb to get there. From here you can see the 25 de Abril bridge – a wonderful place to relax, bring wine, a book, games, just enjoy the view or whatever tickles your fancy.

Post the view and relaxing, we checked out Landeau. This shop is known for their superb chocolate cake, which didn’t disappoint. It has several layers, including a mousse type texture in the middle of the cake and topped with cocoa powder (if my taste buds aren’t deceiving me). It’s decadent and rich and if you’re into chocolate, I’d say you must check it out. It was a cozy spot with soft French music playing and I was lucky enough to have the whole place to myself where I spent some time writing and enjoying the quiet.

After chocolate – we walked around some more. Here are some random pictures throughout our venturing.

We found ourselves in a large square near Alfama, where there were statues and fountains…which I guess is vague since there are plenty of areas like this, but I’m not sure what it’s called.

There were additional shops, one including a sardine store, which had a serious Willy Wonka vibe…vibrant and flashy.

Roamed some more, found a random mini market with delicious meat aroma in the air. Also, stands on stands serving different types of sangria. One random and cool thing about Lisbon is that you can take your drink with you and walk the streets. So, of course I had to.

Some more walking and I found myself at Park – a rooftop bar, with a decent view of the city….but we kept walking and ended up at Castelo (Castle) de São Jorge’s! Highly recommend going around sunset, it was fantastic!

Dined at O’Arco, which I’m sure is great for people who love meat, but not so much for people (like me) who are picky. They had sardines, which is traditional for the area, which I didn’t hate, but I’d never personally order. I tried the chorizo and it was far too fatty/chewy for me. But hey, can’t say I didn’t try!

Day 4

Day trip to Sintra! I know I’ve done plenty of touristy activities on my trip, but this is BY FAR the most touristy and crowded place…and for good reason. Sintra is literally like stepping into a fairy tale, bright colored buildings, beautiful architecture, even the forest surrounding the palace and grounds has a magical feel. According to an Uber driver, people take (black) chicken out to this forest for sacrifice, also people perform spells and other mysticism.

It was quite foggy when we went, which I thought might have deterred some folk, but totally not the case. To get any photos without people was a task, patience is a virtue here…but entirely worth it! The fog/mist also added to the intrigue. Loved my time here.

Also checked out Barrio Alto when we returned back to Lisboa. Definitely worth checking out the night life there! I met some hilarious people and had a memorable night.

Day 5

I changed Airbnbs to the Belem area, so obviously this was on the plan for today! Definitely touristy, but I went closer to sunset, and the crowds were certainly manageable. Holy toledo! Beautiful.

I ate dinner at Pistola y Corazon Taqueria and HELL YES…super hip, super tasty and best of all, affordable. There was cool artwork in the restaurant, 5E margaritas and plenty of food options (burritos, nachos, tacos, meat and veggie choices)! So glad we checked it out, I guess it’s a local favorite (according to a taxi driver anyway).

Day 6

I explored the Belem area slightly more and went to the Tropical Botanical Garden…for the low, low price of 2 euros! It was sunny and a beautiful day for a stroll, peacock watching and duck watching and checking out a well manicured lawn.

There was also a free exhibit going on here! Both were cool to see, if you have free time or want a low key day, but I wouldn’t necessarily put it at the top of my list of things I’d recommend.

However, I HIGHLY recommend going to Rio Maravilha (located at LX Factory) for a fantastic rooftop bar/restaurant experience. I can’t attest to their food, but holy shit, I had the best drink I’ve ever had in my life. A bartender recommended the passion fruit vanilla rum drink and it did not disappoint, I never want to drink anything else again. GO HERE! Not only was the drink fab, but the views are great and the atmosphere is laid back and not even a little pretentious. Service was friendly, music was chill AF, eclectic art, and did I mention the views? This was the perfect end to a day and the perfect end to my time in Lisboa.

Tiles of Lisbon

I don’t think my Lisbon post could be complete if I didn’t include any mention of the beautiful tile work throughout the city, it was one of my favorite things.

 

And additional random photos that are post worthy…

And some impressive graffiti

Overall, I absolutely fell in love with Lisbon – it’s a charming and affordable city with loads to see and do.  If you decide to go, be prepared for lots of hills, lots of culture and a city with lots of character.  I thoroughly enjoyed my time here and can’t wait to go back one day!  xoxo

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Havasupai Pt 2 Exploring Waterfalls

Havasupai Experience continued – Exploring the waterfalls! 

After we set up camp and changed into water shoes, my boyfriend and I headed to Mooney Falls!

 (Mooney Falls)

To get to Mooney, you just continue along the path, it’s incredibly intuitive. You’ll also have a map provided at check-in. You’ll see the “descend at own risk” sign. The route down to the waterfalls is slightly daunting, you go through multiple enclosed dark staircases. And if you go at a busy time of morning or even afternoon, you may find yourself waiting, as it gets congested. For me, this was the worst, if you’re claustrophobic, I’d suggest going early to avoid the lines and possibly being at a standstill in the cave staircase. After the relatively easy staircases, you’ll soon see a more drastic vertical climb. There are plenty of footholds, but  using extreme caution is advised. The sheer force from the waterfall splashes said route, which makes for a slippery/muddy climb.

(The view after one of the enclosed staircases, you’ll also get a nice mist at this point)

We decided just to hang out and enjoy the view and water since we had already hiked at least 10 miles. We posted up at one of the benches in the water for the perfect picnic spot!

After eating, we decided to explore more around the waterfalls…not wandering too far from this here bench.

We even found a cave! Super cool! The above cave is directly underneath the waterfalls pictured in our selfie and where I am sitting in the last picture,  You would never even know its there, unless a random kind stranger informs you. 😛

After basking in the sun and swimming in the frigid yet refreshing water, we headed back to camp for dinner, relaxation and games. We love playing bananagrams and farkle (we have the special moose edition). 😛

 

Day 2

After a fairly restful nights sleep and a beautiful night under the stars, we headed to Beaver Falls. I had only planned to hike to Beaver Falls given we had the extra day, so yay for being able to make it! A 7+ mile day ahead. Luckily for me, my hiking boots (and the male version) are amazingly comfortable and I had no blisters, as I heard others complaining about. Otherwise, I’m not sure how eager I would have been to do this hike. I wore my Chacos, which ended up giving me a few blisters I think due to the water and extra friction, but I didn’t want to wear my boots through water, so, not sure if I would have done anything differently, but maybe helpful to readers. You will be walking through A LOT of water if you trek to Beaver Falls.

(Waiting in the staircase cave)

You’ll hike toward Mooney Falls, which yes, means going through the slightly scary process of trekking through the staircases and down the slippery ladder yet again, Post this, you’ll follow the trail to the left, when in doubt just follow the stream of water and you’ll be fine.

Super pretty views along the way! There are a lot of little bridges that you’ll cross, or you can just continue to walk in the water.  We accidentally stumbled upon that one waterfall by going a circuitous route off the trail. Glad we did! The trail was easy to lose, but as long as you’re following the stream, you’ll find your way – always be careful though, going off trail is generally more challenging and precarious.

Here are some additional views we encountered along the way. I was beginning to get blisters and getting exhausted from the heat/hike. Though, when it’s all said and done, I would have regretted not going, so, there’s that. Upon nearly arriving, you’ll check in with a ranger. He is there to ensure safety and see where you’re heading because after a certain time in the day, you cannot head to the Colorado River. He was friendly and kind! He even gave me some gauze and tape to help with my blisters, because silly me left my first aid kit at the tent. Rookie mistake.

(Beaver Falls!)

After speaking with the ranger, you’ll still have another five minutes or so, you’ll descend and what do you know, you’ll see a magical pool and cascading waterfalls of serenity before you. There are many options of places to chill, lay out, eat, swim, explore or whatever you chose to do.

  

Josh found another cave to explore! The water was chilly, and the sun only hits this area directly for a short window before it passes over the canyon, I suggest leaving early in the morning to optimize sunshine. It took us around 3 hours to arrive – with much exploring along the way. It’s a relatively short hike, but there are moderately challenging aspects, so be prepared! We could have definitely brought more food, by the time we arrived back to the campgrounds, we were starving. Fortunately for us – we heard about amazing Fry Bread, which is exactly as it sounds. They fry some bread and there is an assortment of toppings (nutella, powdered sugar, strawberry syrup and others that I can’t recollect). They also had savory fry bread (chili cheese dog). What luxury when you’ve hiked around 20 miles in the past two days! Make sure to bring some cash if you want to indulge in the fry bread or other concessions. (The little store and concession hut near the check in area does accept cards though!)

We took our Fry Bread to Havasupai, another .5 miles from the stand. We also brought our MRE meals for a well deserved delicious dinner. The chicken and dumplings has been my personal favorite thus far.

Their lasagna is pretty tasty too.

Tree post on a tree stump.

After a very full day, we set off to bed after hanging out in our hammock for a bit. We had planned to take the helicopter, so we set out early to avoid the line and when we arrived  we were the first there!  Only to find out there was no line because the helicopters only operate on certain days! AHH! So, if you want that option, make sure to check in on the dates they run!!! (I know there are also mule ride options, though I don’t necessary condone that. )

Trying to mentally prepare yourself for a long, difficult hike out, when you thought you were going to take a nice leisurely ride is defeating. But, we powered through and actually completed the hike out in about 4 hours and 20 minutes. 4,000 feet of elevation gain later and I don’t think I’ve ever felt more accomplished than in that moment of reaching the top. It was a community up there, people cheering you on. That was an awesome welcome back. There were also men selling water and Gatorade. ICE COLD. Incredibly satisfying.

We hiked around 30 miles in 3 days. Blistered, sore and exhausted, we had made it! Havasupai was equally challenging as rewarding and even more beautiful in person. I’m so grateful to have been able to experience this serene area of the Grand Canyon.  It’s indescribable and life changing and just incredible. I can’t encourage anyone enough, if you have the opportunity – make this happen at some point in your life!

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Havasupai Waterfalls Pt 1 – Hiking, Camping and Adventure

I’m going to begin this post by saying, reserving a spot at Havasupai Reservation was a painstaking and frustrating 3 week process for me. This included calling the 4 telephone lines (928-448-2141, 928-448-2121, 928-448-2174, 928-448-2180) for hours, every single day M – F.  It was absolutely worth it. I have heard multiple people say it has taken them YEARS to try to get through the phone lines and some people who have yet to get through.

I feel fortunate to have had such luck, but I think it was more determination than anything. Nothing is more defeating than forever getting a busy signal, or even worse, when it finally rings and you have a slight glimmer of hope and then, nobody answers. Being a person with little patience, it was a feat. I just kept telling myself, if there is any chance of me getting through to make this happen, it’ll certainly be worth the effort.

Okay, so after finally getting through the lines, I was told there was only 1 night available for the nights that would work with my schedule. I have done my research and most people suggest at least having 2 nights, if not more. I figured one night was better than nothing, so I went with it. Luckily for me, upon checking in, I was told that I could extend my stay for an additional night, so always ask! It never hurts.

As for the hike, we headed up to Hualapai Hilltop, which I had no problem finding with my GPS. I got there around 9PM, pitched the tent and set off for the 10 mile hike at around 5AM. The parking lot at the Hilltop has toilets, but worth mentioning, no water – so bring what you need!

 (View from the start of the trail, my boyfriend Josh, is pictured below)

You’ll immediately begin to descend and it is a TON of elevation loss.

Around the 8 mile marker there is a little concession stand (serves a noteworthy breakfast burrito) with a convenience store attached in the back. Past this, maybe 10 minutes walking, you’ll see the check-in area where you’ll get a wrist band, directions, and rules. Continuing on, you will spot a grocery store and  a lodge which is an alternative option, instead of camping.  Here, there are water fill-ups! Don’t be fooled by the little village area though, as you still have 2 miles before you reach Havasupai and the campgrounds.

It feels like you’re almost there multiple times. You’ll first pass Little Navajo Falls, which will be on your left. Certainly worth stopping at and enjoying, as you’ll probably not want to hike all that way back to go there. And on your hike out, you’ll more or less just ready to complete your uphill battle.

 (Little Navajo Falls)

Soon enough though, after more descending, you’ll finally see Havasupai Falls! And wow, it’s just too beautiful for words. I can’t stress enough how spectacular and awe-inspiring it is to see these falls in person. The water is just as blue as all the pictures you see and you’ll certainly want to take it all in. But, you’ll still have your pack and camping gear, (if you chose to hike alone and not with a tour company or if you opt for the mules, which I don’t condone). For me, I was most concerned with expelling my extra pack weight and setting up camp for now.

(Havasupai Falls)

After hiking about another half mile and once you pass through the gate, you’re officially in the campground area.

(Water fill up, I suggest filling up prior to setting up camp, unless you want to circle back later, we opted to get a collapsible water jug in addition to our hydration bladders)

In choosing a spot to post up, I tried to find a hammock friendly campsite (plenty of options), that was also close to a rest room (several throughout the campgrounds), and a spot where I had some privacy. We ended up finding the perfect spot, which I’ll just say, there are virtually no bad spots…you are at Havasupai after all.

Buying this hammock was literally the best decision ever for this trip and others to come. If you’re on the fence about it, just stop right now and do it. I was super hesitant, but I found a hella good deal. I mean seriously, $27 well spent.

Exploration of other the other falls and the hike out to be continued…

 

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House Proud

A dim lit, sweaty and crowded club with killer house music is the only way I can depict my experience at Honey this past Friday evening. I rolled up around 11:45 or so, after working 8 long hours and was pleasantly surprised at the vibe I encountered. BG (Bryan Gerrard) House was dropping some fire tracks as I entered and continued until 12:30 or so when Mark Farina took over until closing time (around 2AM). The night was nothing short of phenomenal, especially for me, as I had the honor to be front row for the entirety of Mark Farina’s set ! He is seriously THE MAN. I was bummed to have missed his mushroom jazz set earlier in the evening, but happy to have been able to experience it at all. Mark incorporated some Prince into his set, nice touch, since we are in Minneapolis after all.  Chuck Love accompanied the DJs all evening with live instruments such as the trumpet, flute, bongos, triangle, key melodica and tambourine (probably even more that I’m not remembering). The evening was impressive to say the least, but I’d expect nothing less from this lineup and combination of talent. The crowd was diverse, too, which is always neat to see such a wide range of folk coming together to boogie and have a good time.

Apparently, House Proud is a monthly dance party that features DJs, not sure if it always happens at Honey, but the last two months took place there – and I wish I had known about it sooner. If you’re ever in Minneapolis and enjoy breaking a move check it out! I seriously cannot recommend it enough. Great vibes, great music, great people – what more could you want from an event like this? So glad that I had the opportunity to catch a glimpse of the night life here…though I wish these DJ sets happened more regularly. 😛

If you want to listen to this dope set – go here! I arrived a little before the 2 1/2 hour mark, but the content before that is certainly worth checking out too. Enjoy!

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A Broad Trippin

“What limits people is that they don’t have the fucking nerve or imagination to star in their own movie, let alone direct it.”

-Tom Robbins

I am currently reading Still Life With Woodpecker, this quote seemed to stand out to me. Ever since I started traveling with my job, I have adopted a more aggressive stance to explore and venture outside of my comfort zone. My main intent with this blog is to share my experiences, the good and the bad. I love my life and I cherish all of the experiences I’ve had thus far. If nothing else, this will be a remarkable tool to look back on later in life…but I truly hope I will inspire at least one person along the way.